Let’s Go Malawi …
Back on the road taking in a new country, we headed to Lake Malawi for the first of two campgrounds on the lake. The scenery coming up to the lake was quite stunning and our campsite happened to be right on the sand. The lake itself is called the ‘calendar lake’ because it’s 365 miles long and 52 miles wide and provides food and work for the many impoverished Malawians.
Malawi is one of the poorest countries in all of Africa and it is sadly, extremely obvious. There are next to no cars on the roads as they are simply unaffordable, the grocery stores carry very little food and next to no fresh fruit or vegetables. The people selling wares are so desperate for clothes that they would rather trade than have you pay in cash, as clothing and shoes are next to impossible to purchase. But through all of their difficulties and hardships they are happy and smiling people. Here more than almost any other country we’ve been to thus far, the kids, young and old come running to wave at us in the truck or simply to have a chat and ask us where we are from. It is amazing to see such warmth in the face of such adversity.
Over the course of the next few days we recovered from the two and a half day drive by reading and taking walks on the beach… while we weren’t shopping that is. Malawi is home to some of the most amazing wood carvings and art works and have been made famous by the two piece Malawi Chairs that nearly every tourist brings home. We managed to escape without a chair but we still have a rather large supply of other goods that we’re eager to display our house once we come back home. Stijn also managed to make friends with a local scorpion that we found in our tent and kept in a bottle for the remainder of our time. He’s seems to have really taken to the nastier side of nature by collecting all kinds of critters. Luckily for me… or him depending on how you look at it… they stay outside the tent once they’ve been discovered. After this latest discovery, I immediately covered the entire tent in bug spray. Scorpions behind us, art work and souvenirs in hand we packed up camp and headed to the other side of the lake to Candy Beach where we would call home for the next three days.
Candy Beach is one of the busier campgrounds we’ve seen thus far and tends to be a meeting point for many of the overland trucks. Luckily for us it wasn’t as crowded as it will get in a few weeks and we were able to relax in the sun and savour some more beach time. Stijn and I made use of our free time by sailing a catamaran a couple of times among other things, and on one particular windy morning had one serious ‘oh shit’ moment! We caught the wind but it was so strong that we weren’t able to steer and ended up having to lean out really hard to prevent the boat from tipping. I was scared but Stijn was having the time of his life and once we got back on to dry land, I was pretty happy we pushed it just far enough! Even the local guides were really impressed with our sailing abilities… or shall we say luck!
That night we had a ‘bad taste night’ where we drew names out of a hat and bought the worst clothes we could find for the person for under $10… and it was UGLY! Everyone was literally on the edge of their seats and hoping that each and every ugly outfit wasn’t theirs… but eventually you get as good as you gave and Stijn ended up in an overly tight lycra onesie complete with silk pyjama pants that had to be worn under the onesie, and a zebra print bolero to pull the whole look together! I was a real stunner in a pastel pink ball room dancing dress complete with faux lace which exposed just about everything. Luckily I managed to sneak a tank top underneath while no one was looking and it was a good thing I did! But revenge is sweet and I was quite happy when I pulled out our tour leader’s name and quickly went to work putting together the best drag outfit I could muster up. The final result was an 80’s bathing suit complete with a black fringe skirt and an Egyptian-esque head piece. I had initially bought shoes as well but they weren’t quite his size so I turned them in to my ballroom slippers!
Once the outfits were on and everyone was in character we dove into the punch we made in one of our very large coolers and just about every kind of alcohol that could be found was added, many of which were local spirits that I couldn’t name if I tried. After the juice and fruit was added it was nearly tolerable, none the less it didn’t take long for the dancing to start and the party to get rolling! One newly-wed couple even graced us with their rendition of the epic scene from Dirty Dancing- it was mildly entertaining to say the least!
The next morning people stirred slowly and we took the rest of the day to recover. We read books in hammocks and strolled on the beach and before we knew it, it was time to once again move on to our next destination.
Let’s Go Zambia… Crossing over to Zambia we were all rested and ready for more activities. Zambia is home to the Seventh Wonder of the World… Victoria Falls and as such there are lots of water related activities to keep yourself busy. When we arrived at our campground we were shown a DVD of all the various things to see and do and despite deciding not to go rafting again, our minds were quickly changed and before we knew it we were signed up and ready to go!
The Zambeze River is one of the best rafting rivers in the world and for good reason. There is more than 26 rapids in just over 30 km and all but one and commercially raftable. Unlike the Nile River, the Zambeze is water level dependent, meaning that you can only raft it at certain times of the year but luckily our timing couldn’t have been better as we couldn’t have had a better time. All 26 rapids were a lot of fun and while we still tipped once or twice, the rapids weren’t scary and we were never held under water. Stijn even managed to river board a class V rapid, which basically means that he held onto a boogie board and headed straight in! I drew the line there and by the look of terror in his eyes, I’m glad I did!
The scenery was like no other river we’ve rafted and was almost entirely in a deep canyon carved through the granite stone over millions of years. The river had a constant flow which meant that there were next to no flat water areas but plenty of areas where we could float down the river and occasionally get twisted around in a whirlpool. When the rafting was over we were treated to an amazing lunch and then lifted out of the gorge by a cable car.
The next excursion would be one to remember… we literally jumped into a natural pool right on the edge of Victoria Falls where the water plummets over a thousand feet into the Zambezi River. The only thing stopping you from going over is a guide who walks along the very edge just behind you to ‘catch’ you if you get swept away- luckily for me I didn’t learn about the fate of the last guide until after we were out of the water!
In order to get to what’s called Devil’s Pool, located on Livingston Island, you have to take a jet boat from the five star hotel. From there you have stunning views of the falls before jumping into the water to swim through the current heading over the falls to get to the Devil Pool itself. You quite literally have to swim completely upstream in order to compensate for the strong current pulling the water over the falls in order to make it across.
When I first saw the natural pool the idea of jumping in so close the edge of the waterfall seemed completely ludicrous but once they explained where to jump it seemed like a great idea and I was literally the fourth person in! We all jumped in and posed for the camera and then quickly swam to the edge of the natural pool and hung on for dear life. What an amazing experience!
After we had been pulled to safety and negotiated our way through the currents and back on to dry land, we were treated to an amazing outdoor meal overlooking the falls. The camp food has been great but it sure was nice to taste a bit of luxury again and we enjoyed every bite. Eggs benedict, muffins, scones, tea, coffee and juice made an amazing end to an amazing morning… what a treat!
Let’s Go Zimbabwe… After our adventurous morning it was time to get back on the truck but only for a little while as we were crossing over to the Zimbabwe side of the falls. A bridge high over the falls quite literally divides the two countries but both have access to the amazing site. As we made our way to the border we were surprised with the most random of celebrity sightings… wait for it… David Hasselhoff just happened to be crossing over the border at the same time as we were and once we got over the strangeness of it all we managed to get him to pose for a few photos. He was surprisingly thin, very tall and clearly had a lot of ‘work’ done but he was a great sport and our tour has since called itself the ‘We Hassled the Hoff Tour’!
That night we went to a game meat restaurant where all of the lovely animals that we’ve seen since our time started here in Africa were on the menu… well some of them at least! Stijn was delighted by the wart hog, kudu (an Antelope) and Ostrich but was less delighted by the crocodile tail. I was happy to feast on local fish and vegetables! We also had some great South African wine- the only problem is that it was room temperature but seeing as that was only slightly below 30 degrees, we had to put it on ice!
The whole restaurant was designed like a local village and every guest was given a traditional African cloth to wear for the night. We were also treated to drumming lessons which had the entire restaurant drumming a beat (not an easy feat I assure you), face painting and even fortune telling by traditional medicine men. I couldn’t resist having our fortune told so Stijn and I made our way into his hut and were delighted by how good our fortune was! All the nut shells and bones appear to be on our side! The next day, though we had already lost a few members of our group, there was still enough of us to head to the Victoria Falls Hotel for tea time and cocktails. It just happened to be the hotel that the Hoff was staying at but despite our best hopes, we were unable to locate him this time, but not for a lack of trying! The hotel is a traditional British hotel built more than a hundred years ago and while it has aged, its original elegance isn’t hard to see. The grounds have a fantastic view of the falls and provided a perfect backdrop for our proper English tea, complete with scones and finger sandwiches! They also had an astonishing array of delicious cocktails that didn’t go un-tested by our group. I only needed to have to have one margarita to find out just how strong they were… my body was mush after only one drink and for only $5! I’m not sure how they managed but the rest of the group had four or five each and despite the toxicity, we didn’t have to roll anyone out!
The next day it was time to say goodbye to the majority of our tour group as some people were finished their tour while others were making their way to Capetown via Botswana, while we head to Johannesburg via Mozambique. The last four weeks, or in some cases six, with this group has been amazing and we will certainly miss a lot of faces. It’s always hard to say good bye but with any luck we will cross paths again at some point.
As we met our new group, made up of only six, we were delighted to pick up two Canadian sisters from London, Ontario. We are finally not outnumbered by Australians, a fact which has not gone unnoticed by the two remaining Aussies. The next two weeks will hopefully be a continuation of the amazing time we are having so far in Africa!
The next morning we loaded up onto our new truck and headed for Matopos National Park where we started our day by jumping out of the safari vehicle and dipping under the fence in search of rhinos. We were a little taken a back when the guide got out his loaded rifle and began giving us the instructions in case a rhino, or any other wild animal in the park, charged us. Walking safari’s are not for the faint of heart! None the less we followed close behind our guide and while we didn’t find a rhino we saw lots of other animals and learned a lot about tracking.After checking in another few spots for rhinos, we headed to a damn for our lunch where we continued to be fascinated by the level of knowledge our guide had. He was a professional hunter before he turned guide and conservationist and every question we threw at him was answered with amazing detail and then some. Our sad sight of the day was coming across a pile of rhino bones and while death is a part of life for rhinos and every other creature, this one met its untimely fate at the hands of a poacher. Poaching continues to be a huge problem in all of Africa and despite shoot to kill orders, they are still running ramped. Rhinos are hunted for their horns which are worth more than gold, literally, and are grinded down and used in traditional Chinese medicine. The evidence of this kill was easy to spot as the skull literally had axe marks on the top of its head where the horn had been dug out and ripped from the rhinos head. It’s so sad that these majestic animals are being hunted to the point where their populations are dwindling faster than they can reproduce but as the demand for their body parts continues, there is no sign of the poaching stopping. The story is echoed for so many of Africa’s most amazing animals.
After lunch we were taken to a cave where the famous San people (the nomadic tribe famous for their tongue-clicking language) had left rock paintings some seven thousand years ago. We were stunned with the level of detail of all of the animals but could only guess at the artworks meaning. A little break from rhino tracking and it was time to give it a final effort and after returning to the same spot as we were at earlier that day and finding no new tracks, we tried a couple more spots before having to give up on account of the setting sun. Though we weren’t successful in finding a rhino, we had an amazing time and were able to see lots and learn even more.After a long day and a late night we were greeted back at camp with yet another amazing meal by our new guide and driver. They always go out of their way to make my vegetarian meals special and I think Stijn is seriously considering skipping out on meat all together as my meals are always so delicious! After dinner we went to bed early and got up at 5:30 a.m. to pack up camp and once again get back on the truck in search of our next destination.
Antelope Park is a private game reserve located near Gweru, Zimbabwe on over 3000 acres of savannah grassland. The park is home to an innovative lion breeding program that seeks to help increase the rapidly declining African Lion population. Research conducted in 2002 estimates an 80 to 90% decline in less than 30 years. The park supports a four-stage rehabilitation and release into the wild programme developed in 1999. The aim of the programme aims to build their lion population by graduating the lions through the four stages that mimic as closely as possible life in the wild. Success for this project means the release of wild-born offspring from rehabilitated captive-bred lions. Each stage aims to teach the lions a particular skill and during our stay we got a chance to take part in a few of these stages.
Our first of two nights at the park couldn’t have started better- after dinner we were treated to an amazing traditional dance routine that wowed us all. The dancing represented the influence that nature has on the local Zimbabwean culture and we couldn’t have been more impressed. Later that night we were awaken by the massive roars of the lions… there are no words to explain just how magical that sound is, there is truly nothing like it. They sound as if they’re mere meters away but in truth the lions were over 3 km away. This massive sound serves to mark one prides territory and to let other prides not to enter it. We were mesmerized the majority of the night and didn’t mind a bit that we got very little sleep!
A few hours later we were up and eager to start our activity filled day… first on our list was a morning walk with the lion cubs. There were two lions that we walked with, both of them only seven months old but by no means small. While they might act like baby cats there claws are already sharp and can do serious damage. We were all given sticks to act as a distraction should a lion want to play with a limb or two! While we were walking we were able to hold onto their tales and pet them when they laid down for a rest. It was so incredible to be so close to these amazing animals and watch as they played with each other. This part of the program is only done with stage 1 lions and is intended to allow the animals to play together as this is how they learn their much needed hunting tactics and luckily for us, we just get to come along for the ride. With plenty of photos snapped it was time for us to return the lions to their home and for us to our next activity. 
Stijn and I were taken on a private safari of the park on horseback. Though we’ve done a number of safari’s at this point the special thing about doing one on horses is just how close the animals allow you to get. We were literally a few feet from herds of wildebeests, zebra, antelope and giraffes-it was pretty amazing. These animals are brought into the park in order to teach the older lions in stage 2 to hunt and will serve as prey when they are released at night. Despite having rather difficult trail horses who couldn’t do much but follow, we still had a great time and it was really nice to have just the two of us with the guide. What a special experience.
When we got back to camp from the horseback safari it was time to go and see a lion feed. These lions are full grown and by no means cubs. We were brought to the lion enclosure and were on one side of a wire fence with a mix of animal parts right in front of us. They release four lions and they literally charge right at us and at the moment where four massive, hungry lions come a charging… there doesn’t seem to be any fence strong enough to protect you. Luckily for us it held and the lions immediately started devouring the animal and claiming chunks for themselves. While feeding the lions is obviously important, the real reason for this form of feeding is to determine the dominant males. The lions who quickly grab a piece of meat and run off are non-dominant males as they are not willing to fight to protect their food while the dominant males will quite literally lay on as much meat as possible and stay right at the kill sight, willing to fight any creature that wants to challenge it for its meal. The dominant males are then used for breeding to ensure the strongest genes are passed onto the cubs.It was a stunning thing to see so close and though I thought I was got to lose all control of bodily functions as the lions charged at us full speed and stopped less than 3 feet in front of us, I can definitely say there is nothing like it. No amount of National Geographic can give you that feeling! After the feeding it was time to head back for lunch and relax for a few hours before we headed out on our night encounter where we would drive alongside three fully grown lions in an open back vehicle in search of a kill.
Approaching the lion enclosure we could hear all 90 or so lions making us well aware of their presence. A handler selected three of the best hunters to take out to feed and within minutes we were off on the hunt. Because it was night time it took a while before we were able to tell where the lions were but we were very often reminded just how close they were when they would dart by our truck in search of dinner. The guide had a red spot light that he uses to try and spot the eyes of prey animals and show the lions where they are. Once a prey animal is located the guide holds the light in a way so that the eyes reflect and before you know it the lions are off. They attempt to surround the animal and drive it in one direction to be taken down. Unfortunately, or fortunately depending on who you route for, we didn’t see a kill but we were delighted with five amazing chases. We couldn’t have been happier with our experience hunting with the lions despite the lack of a kill. After the fifth attempt the lions were growing tired and it was time to take them back to the enclosure for their meal since they were unsuccessful in catching their own. We too had to return for dinner but it was already ten at night so it was a quick bite before bed and sadly time for us to leave this amazing place. We have heard rumours about the park that they are breeding the lions for the purpose of tourist rather than breeding and releasing them into the wild, and of course there’s no way to be sure but from what we’ve seen the park appears to be an innovative pilot project in search of answers for a troubling problem. The process itself is a long one but hopefully over time the lion population here in Africa will receive a little help because of the great work and dedication of the people of Antelope Park. Tomorrow we are up at 5 a.m. in order to make the two day drive over the border into Mozambique.
Let’s Go Mozambique… The drive into Mozambique would prove to be a long one but not without its stories. A civil war lasting from 1975- 1992 means that our bush pees en-route have to be well planned out as there are active landmines scattered throughout the country. Not only do you have to be weary of land mines but also of very dangerous snakes such as the deadly Black Mamba. Hearing this was enough to make me want to pee on the truck tires or just hold it all together but luckily we managed to arrive on the coastal town of Velanculos without incident and we are once again at the beach. Even though we’ve seen a lot of beaches on our trip, they are always a welcomed treat. We spent the next two days lazing around the beach and enjoying what is likely to be our last bit of sun for a long time!
Let’s Go South Africa… Our next and final stop of the trip was Kruger National Park in South Africa. This park was much different than the other wildlife parks that we’ve visited. There was far more traffic and people and full on campgrounds complete with gift shops and all kinds of luxuries that we haven’t had at the other parks. On one hand it was nice to have the amenities but to be honest it is pretty hard to beat wild camping in the Serengeti or the Masai Mara.
On the way in and the way out, we did a few game drives but we had to do them in our big touring truck and therefore had to stay on the main roads which meant that our animal sightings were limited. We had high hopes for Kruger National Park but after so many amazing parks already behind us, it just wasn’t quite able to compete. Regardless, it’s always amazing to be able to see animals in the wild and no matter the setting, it never gets old.
As we wrap up our tour in Africa we couldn’t be happier about our time on this amazing continent. So much of what we’ve seen has been beyond words and nearly impossible to explain to those who haven’t been. Africa is a place that gets into your blood and stays with you long after you’ve left its shores. The people that we’ve met, the sights that we’ve seen have truly been magical and have put a cherry on top of our once in a lifetime experience. For the first time on this amazing journey we are truly speechless.
Let’s Go Holland… We are once again back in Holland but it seems somewhat bitter sweet. It is at long last time for us to say goodbye to the special people that we have spent so much time with in Holland. It’s indescribable for me just how at home I feel in this amazing country. We have spent time with the people that I have before now only heard so much about and it is so amazing to finally put faces to the names. Thank you so much to Albert, Inge, Martijn, Ben, Henriette, Daan, Miep, Willem, Noortje, Soetje, and Matts for making our time with all of you so special. We really can’t thank you all enough for taking us into your families, making us feel so welcome and giving us a home while we were abroad. We hope to repay the favour in the near future and as often as you all will grace us with your presence in Canada. You are all, always welcome.
Let’s Go Canada… It is surreal to think that our trip is coming to a close and while it feels like it’s been so long, at times it feels just like yesterday when we were saying goodbye to our family and friends and heading to the airport. There are so many things we expected that this journey would bring us and mostly we were looking forward to setting foot on those parts of the world that we had long since dreamed about. What we didn’t expect was just how special home would become to us. We are so blessed to have an amazing life in Canada, one surrounded by amazing people and an environment where we can set our limits and break any boundaries that we set our sights on. We have learned even more just how lucky we are and we can’t wait to go home and be reunited with our loved ones. We will truly cherish this past ten months for many years to come and couldn’t be happier about the investment we’ve made on ourselves and our dreams.
Last but not least I want to thank Stijn for being the only person who I could have made this journey with, the only person who could have taken it with me and the only person who would have loved every moment just as much as I did. Thank you for being the person who made me laugh and appreciate even the less than ideal moments and the person who made the most amazing moments so much more special for being able to share them with you. I am an extremely lucky girl and I can’t say enough how proud I am of us for making this opportunity and even more proud that we took it. We did it babe and when it all sinks in and we look back on this amazing time in our life we are going to have years and years’ worth of smiles! I love you and as always, I look forward to what’s next.
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